Awhile back, I headed up to Traverse City for a bachelorette party (a fantastic place for one of those, by the way). I decided to get a couple of good runs in, because that really should be a requirement when you’re in a new place.
I’ve been to Traverse City several times before, but have yet to discover all the fantastic running and dining options it provides. This will be an ongoing post. The more I explore, the more I’ll add (oh darn, an excuse to go back…).
Traverse City is one of the best Michigan beach towns you’ll find. If you’ve ever been up Michigan’s “west coast,” you’ll discover a smorgasbord of adorable down towns, sandy Lake Michigan shoreline, and beach houses of every size and color. Traverse City is a little different, since it’s technically on the Grand Traverse Bay and not the Lake Michigan shoreline, but there are plenty of easy ways to access the shore, including a reasonable drive to the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. It’s that place that was voted “Most Beautiful Place in America” by Good Morning America. That status is a badge we Michiganders wear with great, great pride.
Now, I’m not saying it’s the most beautiful place in America… But it’s certainly worth a visit.
Traverse City itself is very runner/hungry person friendly. There are so many trails! So much good food! Plus it’s home to the Bayshore Marathon, which is extremely popular amongst us running folk. The half marathon sells out within minutes every year.
Just like other Michigan beach towns, Traverse City is a ghost town come winter. In college, the GVSU Running Club (myself included), would make a trip up to Traverse City every January to run the Frozen Foot Five Miler. Almost all the shops and restaurants were closed down, a few remained open for skiers and winter enthusiasts. However, it’s nothing like the upbeat vibes that come with fair summer weather. If you’re going up to Traverse City for food and running, avoiding winter is probably best.
Where to run
The TART Trail
Not the most scenic of trails, but you can easily get in a long run on this trail (in total, the trail is 10.5 miles). The trail is paved, flat, and very safe. It takes you right through downtown Traverse City and a big plus for me, it’s very easy to find. There are plenty of access points, including walkways from local establishments. Since it runs past so many stores/restaurants with parking lots, free parking is easy to find.
Dunes Trail
Okay so this one is more of a hike than a run, but trust me, it will count as your cardio for the day. The trail is 3.5 miles through sand and up massive dunes. There is also no escape from the sun. It ends at Lake Michigan, though, so you have a nice freezing cold swim to look forward to. Before you start the hike there are warning signs that pretty much suggest you DON’T do the hike. My younger brother had the most epic meltdown of his life on these dunes. But hey, the views are spectacular. Plus you really get to “experience” the dunes. If you are looking for something less strenuous, still make your way over to the Sleeping Bear National Lakeshore. There are miles and miles of trails to explore.
Pyramid Point
One of the most scenic points you’ll find. The water turns from emerald green to the color of the Heart of the Ocean from Titanic (which is ironic, because it’s a lake). The hike is fairly easy, a little hilly, but it’s not on sand so it could be run. The climb up to Pyramid Point is short, but you can get in extra miles by taking a long way back through winding back woods trails. You can also climb down the dune at Pyramid Point, but then you have to climb back up… With people watching as you trip over yourself and gasp for air.
Grand Traverse Commons Trails
This place is very cool. It used to be an asylum (the cool part) and now it’s filled with awesome places to eat and shop (the other cool part). There is also a network of paved and un-paved trails that run through the 140-acres of the commons. Head over here for an easy run and finish at one of the great places to eat like Pleasanton Bakery.
VASA Pathway
The VASA Pathway is a perfect for a classic trail run, with 3K, 5K, 10K, and 25K loops to choose from. They range from easy to difficult (clearly stated on the trail maps) The trails are used for cross country skiing in the winter and large sections of the trail are wide and spacious by trail standards. The loops make it easy to navigate and give you the chance to get lost nature for a bit. The trails are quiet, so if you need a break from the tourists you should give the VASA Pathway a try.
Dirt roads
This may not sound like a good recommendation, but my six-mile run through the cherry farms was stunning. The cherry blossoms were in full bloom (Go sometime in May) and they went on and on and on. Plus there was no one else on the roads, so there was no one to judge me while I stopped and took pictures. So if you don’t feel comfortable pulling over on the side of some random dirt road just outside of Traverse City, consider renting a place out there for a chance to explore the surrounding farmland. Air BnB has some great options that are more affordable than a swanky hotel downtown.
Where to eat
Harvest
Small menu, simple dishes, but what they’ve got is amazing. It’s easy to find, located right in the heart of downtown Traverse City. It’s the kind of food that keep you full for hours without making you feel crappy. I highly suggest the sweet potato fried with chimichurri sauce and the Old #12 Hash.
Georgina’s
When I heard we were going here, I said Italian food is always a great choice. Yeah no, this is actually a fusion restaurant of authentic Asian and Latin cuisines. I was skeptical, but I also hadn’t eaten in eight hours so I was ready to give anything a try. The place has an upscale feel without the matching four dollar signs next to its Trip Advisor rating. I’ve only ever tried their Bimbipbap with chicken and it was possibly literally the greatest thing I’ve ever eaten. Plus it comes in this super hipster, seemingly bottomless stone bowl (the stone bowl was really what sold me in the first place). I am proud to say I was the only one who was able to finish the entire thing, and it was no small feat.
Moomers
Ice cream!! It’s creamy, it’s delicious, it’s homemade, and they’ve got lot’s of flavors. Plus I love when ice cream places lean into the whole cow aspect of ice cream. Moomers? that’s adorable! Anyway, I really don’t think I need to sell you on ice cream, but if you are trying to decide between yet another Kilwins (is that just a Michigan thing?) or something a little more original, go with Moomers. There’s a standalone location right off of US-31 (pretty much the only direct route into Traverse City, and also right off the TART Trail!) and an additional smaller location downtown. The standalone location has an excellent view of the bay. The Amaretto Cherry is top notch.
Pleasanton Bakery
I am a big fan of bakeries that tolerate no shortcuts and Pleasanton fits the bill. They specialize in the trifecta of happiness: bread, pastries, and pizza. Everything is freshly baked, all the ingredients are of the highest quality. They are located in the Village at Grand Traverse Commons, so a perfect place to stop by after a trail run. If you buy bread, make sure to buy their butter to go along with it. It’ll be one of the best decisions you ever make, top ten at least.
What to Race
Bayshore Marathon
I have yet to run this, but I heard it’s awesome, beautiful, and relatively easy to PR (and Boston Qualify)! Just make sure you know registration when opens and sign up ASAP. Spots fill up very quickly! There is also a half marathon and a 10K.
Frozen Foot Race
If you have a passion for cross country skiing or other weird winter sports (winter is for hibernating, thank you very much), head up to Traverse City sometime in mid-to-late January for a truly unique race. It’s five miles through neighborhoods (you get a few glimpses of the frozen bay during the race) with a MASSIVE hill that will set that mile back a whole minute. But then you fly down it the next mile (which is super fun when it’s icy). I ran it four years in a row and the temperature ranged from 45 degrees and rainy to 10 degrees and icy. Registration usually comes with a nice long sleeve tech shirt and age group prizes are typically pretty nice. It’s cool to see the town come together in a season where not much goes on in Traverse City to put on an actually enjoyable winter event. Oh and when you’re there, make sure to say hi to the GVSU Running Club. They make up about half the race and they’ll be the really loud, obnoxious ones.
